Valley Ice
- Greg Luesink
- Jan 15, 2024
- 2 min read
TLDR: I was lucky enough to invite myself on an ice climb with a valley legend, Drew Brayshaw, on the tail end of a rare valley-bottom January coldsnap.
I'd been eyeing the forecast for weeks, hoping for a cold-snap to freeze some waterfalls.
My new ice tools beckoned swinging, and I was itching to test them out on some ice.
Whilst working at Mt. Waddingtons Outdoors, I happened to meet a local legend, Drew Brayshaw. Among many first ascents, he has ascended Mt Waddington, which is pretty darn cool. I got his number, and often pestered him for beta about climbs.
With the weather looking like waterfalls would freeze at the valley floor... I got excited!
I was actually going to climb with Sam Waddington (my boss, and also a climber of ice), but he had a last minute meeting and had to cancel. I reached out to Drew, and he graciously let me tag along since his regular climbing partner was busy with work.
At first, he suggested going to see if a waterfall was frozen up Chilliwack Lake Road, but then we settled on a climb called Fox-Webb near Bridal Falls.
Drew picked me up in the morning, and we drove off to Bridal Falls. After a short hike into the forest, we arrived at the base of the waterfall.
At the base of the climb, Drew shook his head once again at my Scarpa F1 GT ski boots that I brought to climb in. Oh well, they're warmer and stiffer than my 3/4 shank Scarpa Zodiac Tech boots!
Drew inquired if I would like to lead the first pitch...
I took one look up at the rambling ice above...
... and happily rejected the offer. It was probably a test of ice-climbing manhood. And I contentedly flunked the exam.
Drew proceeded to lead the next 3 pitches of ice. It wasn't too difficult, maybe Water Ice grades 2-3 according to Drew, with one section of traversing ~WI4. On top rope, I was relaxed as I kicked my crampons and swung my tools into the styrofoam-like ice.
At the top of pitch 3, Drew decided to take a gander at the next section. Sadly, the upper parts were too thin. From his many years of experience, Drew knew when to fold his hand and down climb back to the belay.
We rappelled back down the waterfall, carefully avoiding stepping on the rope with our crampons, reaching our stashed bags at the base not too long after. Within 6 hours of leaving the car, we were back on the road, driving home.
I enjoyed the experience thoroughly, and am looking forward to more time on ice! However, with the frequency of valley-bottom freezes, it might require some road-tripping.
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